Castles and Ketchup

We went castle-hopping over Easter in Luxembourg. It was great. Except winter finally arrived in Western Europe... on the day of the Spring Equinox. Easter Sunday dawned clear and cold so we bundled the kids and went "hiking" in the Mullerthal Forest. Hiking here is defined as: "drive to next designated parking area near scenic land feature, carry stroller up/down uneven stone steps, take pictures, carry stroller back to car while kicking self for forgetting backpack, repeat." The best castle we've seen to date was in Beaufort, a place not even mentioned in travel guides. It had a torture chamber, tall towers, and was not ridiculously over-"restored" - the sad fate of many a castle. Plus we ate at a French Patisserie (translation: yummy bakery) in Beaufort that had the most delicious fancy finger pastries we've ever gulped down in an unappreciative hurry with pop and apple juice. Ah well. Someday, we've promised ourselves, we will enjoy the culinary aspect of travelling. Until then it's train station McDonald's, curbside brats, or cheese squares and meat sticks from the grocery store taken back to our room. Travelling with the kids does have its advantages. Sleeping all together in a closet-sized room with no Internet access means bedtime is 7:45, for everyone.

My next blog will examine the differences between German and American obsessions. But today, following a great weekend that nonetheless highlighted some of Europe's shortfalls, I must comment on the tight-fisted restaurant culture. Contrary to American belief that portion sizes are smaller here, plates have plenty of food. But in other areas (mostly noticed only by parents travelling with young children), the European restaurant is sadly lacking.

Ketchup, for example. Remember the impossible-to-open-until-it-suddenly-squirts-all-over-your-blouse packets that contained enough ketchup for five - maybe six - fries total? They use those here. And they'll cost you 20 - 50 Euro cents per, my friend. Napkins are rationed here based on the one-per-diner rule that obviously doesn't account for the eating habits of 1 year olds. They don't charge you for them but they will glare at you in disgust, no doubt thinking "slovenly barbarians..." Our diaper bag ensures we always have wipes to fill the inevitable cleanliness gap, but still. And Refills. This is a basic human right in the States and restaurants not offering them for free are stingy, un-family-friendly snobs. Sadly, this is not so here. Some will tell you that the lack of ice in drinks means you get your money's worth. Whatever, cheapos.


Finally, we cannot neglect to mention gas stations and bathroom access in our rant against the purveyors of stinginess, though their connection to the culinary culture is tenuous (or truck driver related), at best. Despite a fascination with all things auto, Germany and surrounding countries will make you work to find your fuel. Gas stations are often not on main streets or autobahn exits, not open early / late / on weekends, and not very close together. I guess the lack of competition must be nice, it costs us almost $8 per gallon of diesel; gas would be even more painful. And you'd better have change with you just in case you do find a gas station or rest stop. That'll be 50 cents to use the facilities, thank you. The term "public restroom" refers to trees and bushes. Those wanting modern plumbing, even at many tourist attractions and shopping areas, will be coughing up the museum admission fee, buying an appetizer, or desperately pleading to get to their goal.